In 1904, my grandmother, Gussie Abramowitz, left her home and family in Jelgava, Latvia, with nothing but anxious hope in her heart and a few belongings in her hands. Alongside her younger sister, Sarah, and a cousin, she set sail to America, bound for a new life in an unknown world. Eighteen days later, she stepped onto American soil for the first time at the Scandinavian-American Line docks in Hoboken, New Jersey.
On March 14, 2025, my sister Avra and I, two of Gussie’s granddaughters, set out on a journey of our own to trace her first steps in the New World. We wanted to see what she saw, stand where she stood, and feel a connection to her experience over a century ago.
We left Avra’s house in the suburbs of New York late that morning, with her husband, Michael, behind the wheel. Navigating from one highway to another, weaving through the maze of roads leading to the George Washington Bridge, and then threading our way down toward Hoboken, I was grateful that Michael was driving. The winding route of about an hour was confusing, but the anticipation of what lay ahead kept us engaged.
On right: approaching the George Washington Bridge from New York
As we approached Hoboken, we passed through an old industrial area. Little did we know, this was once the very location of the Scandinavian-American docks. Our hearts sank when we later learned that not a trace of those docks remained. Still, we held onto the hope that we might find a marker, a plaque, something tangible to connect us to that moment in Gussie’s life.
Hoboken itself is steeped in history. Beyond its once-bustling docks, it boasts a remarkable list of “100 firsts.” Before beginning our search for the docks, we took a brief detour to visit the birthplace of Frank Sinatra. Next, we stopped at the site of the first-ever baseball game, much to the delight of my husband, Stan.
Tara and Stan point to the sign showing where Frank Sinatra was born. On the right, Stan and Michael stand by the spot of the first baseball game.
While circling the neighborhood in search of parking, we passed Park Street, where our niece Madison had once lived. Finally, we settled on the Maxwell Street parking garage, which would be easy enough to remember when we wanted to find the car since Avra’s older son is named Maxwell. From there, we walked down to the waterfront. The wind off the Hudson was brisk, and we pulled our coats tightly around us, grateful we had dressed warmly. The Manhattan skyline stretched before us, a dazzling contrast to what Grandma Gussie would have seen in 1904. How different the world must have looked through her eyes!
Left – 1904 view and on the right a 1903 view of Hudson River
Current views of the New York skyline from Hoboken, New Jersey:
We followed the walkway along the river until we reached a construction zone that blocked our path. Unbeknownst to us, beyond that barrier was the very spot where the Scandinavian-American docks had once stood. Though we never set foot exactly where Grandma did, we took comfort in knowing that we were close. Her ferry or barge to Ellis Island would have glided past the very stretch of river where we now stood.
By now, hunger was setting in, and we stumbled upon a charming café, Turning Point at the Shipyards. The food was excellent, the ambiance inviting, and to my delight, they even used vegan butter, allowing me to enjoy everything on the menu in spite of my dairy allergy.
After lunch, we made our way to the Hoboken Historical Museum, which conveniently opened just as we arrived. Though small, it was packed with fascinating exhibits. We even watched a one-hour documentary about Hoboken’s rich history. When we inquired about the old docks, the docents were unsure of their exact location but kindly retrieved an old map for us to examine. And there, on the faded paper, we found our answer—the docks had been right where we had walked, just out of reach beyond the construction barriers.
Below: Avra and Tara at the entrance to the museum and an old map of Hoboken showing where the Scandinavian American dock would have been.
With a newfound sense of connection, we continued our walk toward the historic train station. Hoboken today is a vibrant hub for young professionals commuting to New York City, with easy access to ferries and the PATH train. Along the way, we searched for the Frank Sinatra statue but had no luck and eventually decided to head back to the car which we had moved to street parking. Just before reaching it, we stopped in front of a large mural celebrating Hoboken’s history and snapped some photos. As we turned toward the waterfront, we spotted the elusive Sinatra statue at last! Of course, we had to take a few more pictures with Frank himself. Nearby, we also paused to admire a World War II memorial honoring Hoboken’s fallen soldiers.
Although we never stood exactly where Grandma Gussie had, the journey was more meaningful than we could have imagined. We walked along the river where the ferry travelled taking Grandma to Ellis Island, breathed the same river air, and caught glimpses of the past through maps, photos, and stories. When Gussie disembarked in Hoboken, she had little time to linger. She would have needed to find the ferry or barge to Ellis Island, where the next chapter of her journey awaited. We, on the other hand, were able to savor the experience—to reflect, to explore, and to marvel at how much had changed since that day in 1904.
Below is the route from the docks in Hoboken to Ellis Island and then from Ellis Island to Battery Park.
To end our trip on a perfect note, we returned to Avra’s house and watched On the Waterfront, the 1954 Marlon Brando movie filmed in Hoboken. We recognized many of the places we had walked that very afternoon along the Hudson River Waterfront Walkway beside Sinatra Drive. It felt like the city had come alive for us in a way it never had before.
One day, to truly walk in Grandma Gussie’s footsteps, we would need to travel further—to Mitau (Jelgava), Latvia, where she was born; to Libau, Latvia, and Copenhagen, where her journey to America began; to Battery Park’s Pier A, where she arrived after Ellis Island; and to Chrystie Street, where she first settled. But for now, we have taken the first steps. And somehow, I think Grandma Gussie would have been pleased.
Grandma Gussie
Learn More About Gussie Abramowitz
- Gussie’s page on trothman.com
- Memories of Grandma Gussie
- From Mitau to Manhattan: Grandma Gussie’s Journey to the United States in 1904
- The Book of Pearls
Learn More About Some of the Places and Things Mentioned In This Blog
- 100 Hoboken Firsts by Jim Hans
- Hoboken Historical Museum
- Hoboken Train Terminal History
- On the Waterfront Movie
- Scandinavian American Line
Sources
- Map of Hoboken, 1904, Hughes & Bailey. City of Hoboken, New Jersey. [New York, 1904, 1904] Map. Retrieved from the Library of Congress, <www.loc.gov/item/75694727/>.
https://www.loc.gov/resource/g3814h.pm005180/?r=0.684,0.382,0.17,0.102,0 - Current Map of Hudson River from Google Maps
https://www.google.com/maps/place/12th+St,+Hoboken,+NJ+07030/@40.7541355,-74.0255365,416m/data=!3m1!1e3!4m6!3m5!1s0x89c2575fb7d4a4d1:0xfd75407f35fbe8a9!8m2!3d40.7516497!4d-74.029849!16s%2Fg%2F1tf71vq4?entry=ttu&g_ep=EgoyMDI1MDMxMi4wIKXMDSoASAFQAw%3D%3D - 1904 view of NYC Skyline –
https://manhattanlifeinsurancebuilding.blogspot.com/2011/01/gallery-2-late-years1904-1930.html - 1903 picture of 2 long gone skyscrapers (Gillender Building and Hanover Bank Building –
https://manhattanlifeinsurancebuilding.blogspot.com/2011/01/gallery-1-early-years-1894-1903.html - ChatGPT – March 2025, used to enhance some of the imagery in the descriptions
